Baron Haussmann is famous for designing the layout of the city of Paris as we know it today. Under the authority of Napoleon III he levelled whole districts of mediaeval Paris to make way for the wide boulevards and avenues that are characteristic of the modern city. His plan also included several areas of greenery, on the model of the great parks of London, to act as the lungs of the city. To the existing Luxembourg (6th arrondissement) and Tuileries (1st) gardens he added Parc Montsouris (14th), Parc Monceau (8th) and — the most interesting of them all — Parc des Buttes Chaumont (19th).
Covering an area of around 24 hectares (60 acres), the Parc des Buttes Chaumont is the third biggest park in modern Paris, after La Villette (also 19th) and Tuileries. It is built on a hill, the site of a disused gypsum quarry, in a style similar to other Haussmann-style landscaped parks. What makes it different is the variety of terrain: manicured undulating lawns, steep tree-topped hills, a lake, waterfalls, cliffs, caves. Nobody seems to mind — or know — that all of the "natural" features are artificial.
The most striking attractions in the park is the lake with its rocky island that rises to a height of 30m above water level. The island is topped by the "Temple of Sybil" — inspired by the Temple of Vesta in Tivoli, near Rome — overlooking a cave. The island can be accessed from the west by a wooden suspension bridge (65m long, 8m above the level of the lake) or from the south by the "Bridge of Suicides".
The park boasts many beautiful trees, some indigenous, some of more exotic origins. Among them you will find Cedar from Lebanon, Himalayan Cedar, Ginkgo, Byzantine Hazelnut, Siberian Elm, European Holly, and a venerable Oriental Plane planted in 1862 (before the park was inaugurated).
The varied scenery has made the park a favourite among locals, from the picnickers and sun-worshippers who occupy the lawns, to the athletic types who prefer to jog up the hill and do their stretching exercises around the bandstand.
The main entrance to the park is at the junction of Rue
Botzaris and Rue Simon Bolivar. The other entrances are Porte Secrétan, Porte Armand-Carrel, Porte de Crimée, Porte de la Villette and
Porte Fessart. There are also several minor entrances.
Despite the altitude of the park, there are no dramatic vistas. But if you want views, you don't have to go far: the Jardin de Belleville — less than a kilometre away — provides one of the best panoramic views of Paris.
Getting there
- Metro: Botzaris (line 7b); Buttes Chaumont (line 7b); Pyrénées (line 11); Laumière (line 5)
- Bus: 26, 48, 60, 75
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Paraic Maguire (sytykparis@eblana.eu)
2 comments:
I have read your article with pleasure, as every time.
Very near from les Buttes Chaument, there is an interesting and hidden "micro-quartier" : la Butte Bergeyre. May be you know it ? May be a next article ?
I have read your article with pleasure, as every time.
Very near from les Buttes Chaument, there is an interesting and hidden "micro-quartier" : la Butte Bergeyre. May be you know it ? May be a next article ?
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